Skip to main content

Question Point - How to Strip Models

Dettol kills 99.9% of germs.
That 0.1% germ is a Legend.

Dettol

Hey Caesurians, thanks for tuning in last week for the first birthday party of The Art of Caesura!

After much reflection in preparation for last week post, I found that one of my most popular entries from last year was the one where I showed how I made my Silver Tower bases. So this year I've decided to have an irregular series demonstrating other techniques. Now, I know that tutorials exist elsewhere on the internet, but as I have just recently learned these techniques myself I thought I might have a bit of insight for others who are just trying them for the first time. 

My first of these such articles is today!


Question Point: How to strip paint off old models. 


I lived in Australia about two years ago. One of the many delights I enjoyed whilst over there (not least of which were the people, weather and goon) was perfect weather to spray paint the undercoat (or primer) for models. 

When I moved back to Ireland, with its lush humidity and chilly climes, I began having issues with the spray paint I was using. It seemed to go on thick and gritty. I do acknowledge some responsibility, because it always seemed to be windy whenever I was trying to undercoat models, so at times I was likely spraying too close. 

Anyway I went from getting nice smooth results like:



to crappy results like this:


Dettol

Dettol


I just lived with it for a while; some of the first models on this blog (especially the World of Smog ones)  were painted on this rough undercoat. But eventually I said "enough is enough!" I was tired of my crappy undercoat obscuring detail and coarsening surfaces. 

So I did a bunch of research and found that the savior (over here in Europe and the UK anyway) is an antiseptic called Dettol!

Now, I cannot emphasize enough that you CANNOT use the nice smelling varieties. The first one I found and tried was this one: 


Not this one!

It smelled nice...and did diddly squat!


What we need is its industrial cousin:


Now we're talking!

Once you have the right Dettol, just chuck the model in, wait a few hours and then BLAZAAM! DONE! (and by "done" I mean carefully take them out (rubber gloves are your friend!) and give them a good scrub with an old aeroplane toothbrush (using more Dettol to rinse them off before setting them aside to AIR DRY!)


Dettol





Important Notes:

  • You can add as many minis to the jar as will fit so long as you ensure that they are completely covered in Dettol.
  • This will work on metal, plastic or resin* models. (I have used it on all three with no problems at all although I have read of some people have had issues where resin models warped - they recommended not leaving resins in Dettol for more than an hour (though I regularly do it for over 24 hours).
  • Dettol will not loosen plastic glue. I have read (though never experienced) that it can loosen super glue. 
  • In my experience so far, Dettol removes any acrylic-based paint (or even poly-urethane primer). So if it's just a crappy spray-painted undercoat like mine, or a thick dodgy paint job that was on them when you bought 'em off ebay, Dettol should work
    • This is not for enamel paint, for that you'll have to use mineral spirits and elbow grease.
  • DO NOT GET WATER ANYWHERE NEAR THIS TECHNIQUE! Water + Dettol will turn the paint you are trying to remove into a resilient sludge that will be nigh on impossible to remove.
    • Don't mix water into the Dettol
    • Don't wash the models in water first
    • Don't wash the models in water after
  • Timing: I leave all models I'm Dettoling fully submerged for 24 hours. By this time sometimes I don't even have to scrub the model afterwards, the paint just falls off!
  • Leave the minis to air dry once you remove them from the Dettol (you can rinse them with Dettol, but do not use water!) 
  • You can reuse the Dettol - just close the jar and allow it to await its next victim. 

Addendum:

For completion's sake - some people use methylated spirits (available wherever Dettol is sold ;) . They have the advantage of being generally cheaper and faster, but I find they don't work as well on undercoats (which, as you can see above, is mainly what I'm stripping). The process (and cautions) for using methylated spirits are exactly the same as listed above for Dettol.



The result:

This is after 24 hours, with only a minor scrub with the toothbrush


Dettol


Thanks for checking out my first Question Point post. See you next week on The Art of Caesura!


Listening: We Are All Mad - Circus Contraptions
Drinking: Bushmill's 12 year old whiskey


Next Week:

What does the fox say!?

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Full Stop - Oathsworn: Into the Deepwood

The monstrous Deepwood has consumed the land.  No farms or fields remain. There is only corruption, rot and the endless shadow of the twisted trees. ~ Shadowborne Games Pot's Peace, Oathsworn. Welcome to The Art of Caesura! What's all this then, TWO posts in one day!? Well yes, you see timing is of the essence here. Today marks the 200th post of The Art of Caesura , so if you haven't had a chance to check out the celebratory post, please do so !  There is also a Kickstarter ongoing at the moment, that I am getting quite excited by, but it closes on Tuesday, so if I left it till next Friday to tell you about it...it would be too late! Hence, in a world first, two hits of The Art of Caesura in one day! Now onward, into the world of Oathsworn: Into the Deepwood ! Credit: Shadowborne Games Nota bene : I am not associated with Shadowborne Games, and am just writing this because it is something that I am genuinely excited about. None of the

"The Skinny" - Scale 75 Flesh Paint Set Review

The complexion of a light-skinned face  divides into three zones: The forehead has a light golden colour  because it's freer of muscles and surface capillaries. The ears, cheeks and nose all lie within the central zone of the face.  Those areas have more capillaries carrying oxygenated blood near the surface, causing the reddish colour... The zone from the nose to the chin (where there are relatively more veins carrying blue deoxygenated blood) tends toward a bluish, greenish or greyish colour. Some artists accentuated this subtle bluish or greenish hue to bring out the reddish lip colour. Color and Light (page 156) - James Gurney Welcome all to The Art of Caesura! So I finished all the models in Warhammer Quest Silver Tower!! Wooohooo!! Now for something a bit different!  This week I'm going to do something I've never done on the blog before: write a review!! I've been wanting to write my thoughts on  Scale 75 's Flesh Paint Set for ov

"From the City of Shadows" - Arkanaut Company (Painting - Part 1)

The City of Shadows has a dubious reputation  amongst the Overlords, often labelled pirates  or worse by other duardin of their rival sky-ports. Barak Mhornar - Games Workshop Welcome back to another Friday on The Art of Caesura! Let's pick it up from last week and dive right back in to the Arkanauts. Last time we saw them they were all grey and naked. No longer!! This is going to be part one of a two-parter on the painting of these guys before we look their bases and then at the finished Company in the following weeks. I was going to try to cram it all into one post, but wow there is a lot of detail on these guys, and we're in no hurry, so best to spread it out and give it all it's due.  Barak Zilfin Colour Scheme When the Kharadron Overlords first came out I was looking at all the colour schemes and thinking "man, Barak Zilfin all the way!  I mean look at all that copper!" But over the year, my tastes have...matured and I came to really