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"Shoulder to Shoulder" - Oathsworn Allies - Part 1

There is at least one thing worse
than fighting with allies - 
and that is to fight without them.

- Winston Churchill


It's Friday, which means that it's time for The Art of Caesura!

I hope you are feeling fulfilled and if not, why not try to set aside half an hour to accomplish a small task that you have been putting off? 

Anyway, this isn't about life coaching, it's about painting minis! So let's get to it!

Last week we briskly painted a bunch of lovely stone walls for Oathsworn: into the Deepwood. This week we're looking at some of the allies that can help you out if one of your heroes gets eaten / trampled / vomited upon or myriad other unwelcome demises that the Deepwood may hold. 


My wife and I have currently played through the first 2 chapters and the story portion of chapter 3. We have yet to lose any of our heroes, but we've gotten pretty close on a few occasions!

A helpful mechanic in Oathsworn is that if your hero dies during an encounter they are replaced with an "Ally". This is nice if you're playing with a gaming group - it would suck to have to sit out if you've made the effort to attend the games night. 

The allies are basic when compared the full heroes, but can play a meaningful role against bosses. 

Like with last week's walls, I did a quick and dirty paint job on these guys, but once again, I'm happy enough with how they turned out. 

Before we get to painting though, these models took a little bit of prep. 


Unlike the hero models in Oathsworn, which are made out of HIPS plastic (High-Impact Polystyrene - the same plastic that Games Workshop uses) the allies and monsters are made out of the cheaper PVC plastic (commonly used in big Kickstarter Miniature games - the likes of CMoN games etc). This plastic is softer and as such, typically, does not hold detail quite as well. I use a new (sharp) blade in my hobby knife to clean mold lines from PVC instead of old duller blades (which I find works better for scraping mold lines off HIPS models) Being softer, it is more prone to"Bendy Sword Syndrome" and also seems to require more mold-release during manufacturing. For these reasons, I always clean PVC models in warm soapy water. I also quickly straighten out any of the more egregious bends. This is simply done by holding the offending piece under boiling water from the kettle for several seconds, then simply taking it out and holding it in position for several more seconds. Boom!







With the models cleaned and straightened, I gave them ye olde zenithal prime (spray whole thing black, spray Grey Seer from 45 degrees above, spray Liquitex white ink from directly above). Then it was on to Contrast baybeeee!







Nowadays, I mostly use Contrast paints to apply a filter to make coloured metallics (Contrast Snakebite Leather over Leadbelcher is the quickest brass you will ever paint) or to mix with other "conventional" paints to inject some saturation and decrease viscosity (make it flow better). I rarely use them just as they were originally marketed - which is a one thick coat, one and done! Today, I did just that!

I painted the quilted armour with Skeleton Horde...


...the various other cloth with 2 coats of Space Wolves Grey...



...the leather bits Wyldwood...


...and the black bits Black Templar. And you know what? It was already looking pretty good! The trick is to be tidy and do it over a zenithal undercoat. 


Guilliman Flesh quickly took care of the skin. Then it was time for some conventional paints. I tidied up the trim with a dark neutral tone: Skavenblight Dinge before painting all metal areas Gunmetal Grey from Vallejo's Metal Color Airbrush line. In one of his videos, Vincey V. said that these are his favourite metallic paints and I can see why! They flow SO smoothly and have great coverage. The only issue that I have with them is that they flow so well that they b-line it for your brush's ferrule, so make sure to wash your brush thoroughly after use!





With most of the colours in place, I did my little brass trick that I mentioned above just to add some variety to the metal areas. I then applied Agrax Earthshade to the lower portions of the quilted armour to add a little more colour from the grey undercoat. I completed the models by shading the areas that remained silver with Nuln Oil and then picking out highlights with Vallejo Silver.





Aaand donesies!

These four allies were quick and stress-free to paint up. I do, however, hope that I don't see much of them on the tabletop because that would mean one of our heroes has died!

Catch you for more next week right here on The Art of Caesura!


Reading: The Midnight Library - Matt Haig
Watching: White Lotus - Season 2


Next Week:

Help in the dark...

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